Compression system

Inspired by BMX, pegs are an extension of the scooter starting from the wheels’ axles. Essential for every good rail-slayer and grind-lover, they make some tricks easier such as the smith grind. They also allow access to a whole range of ‘peg-exclusive’ tricks, such as ice-picks and tooth-picks.
Even though we originally just used longer axles to simulate the ‘feel’ of a peg, nower days there exists many kinds of peg, and your choice depends on the way you want to use them. Some are better for street, others for park. Some will last longer than others - that’s why it’s important to know more about their characteristics.

There are 3 main types of pegs: aluminum, steel and plastic. Aluminum pegs are lighter than steel, but they are also softer, and will wear down quick. Only 7075 aluminum pegs make a real difference. Almost as hard as steel, you will find only 7075 aluminum on ‘premium’ pegs. Aluminum shall be used in the streets (or in parks) by those wanting a light set-up. However, they may have a shorter life expectancy.
Steel pegs are heavier but are more solid. Perfect for street riding, they will slide on almost every surface, even the grippiest ones. You might even see sparks if you grind them hard enough, simply proving their resistance to friction.
Plastic pegs are very light, but also very fragile. However, they offer a very smooth slide on every surface. Some pegs use plastic only on the outside and aluminum to reinforce them on the inside.

Though Pegs are pretty light, they can still influence your scooter’s balance, especially the ones on the rear axle and if you perhaps ride more than one peg.
Don’t forget to think about the axle and spacers when it comes to weight. We are always aware of this when producing our products descriptions.


1 : lenght

Length is just a matter of personal prefence. Most of people ride pegs around 50 mm, beyond this length they can catch the ground when your scooter leans to one side.


1 : diameter

Diameter is also very important. When installing your rear pegs, check from the side whether the pegs go further than the deck, otherwise they may be inefficient during feeble grinds or ice-picks.
Do not choose pegs too narrow, but this depends on your deck’s thickness.

Every peg should be compatible with every deck and fork, but this is not always the case. If a deck/fork’s geometry prevents you from having the pegs making direct contact with them, simple put a small spacer in between.
Regarding axles, some brands will include them along with the pegs, optimized to work with the pegs and deck. If you try to use these with another deck or fork model, the axles might be too short or too long. If it’s too long, just use some spacers or cut down the axle (if possible.) If it’s too short, you will need to find a longer axle.
Some brands even include threaded axles with their pegs. In this case, the axle will fit every deck/fork, but you might need a different tool to use them.

If you install only one peg per side, always set the axle in the peg and not on the threads themselves, or else it will put a lot of pressure on the axle and it might break.
One more thing, always make sure that there is no gap between the peg and the deck/fork, as tightening the axle will be useless. Add a spacer if necessary.